(Overmountain Shelter (mile 386.1) - US Route 19E (mile 395.3) *overnight at The Station*)

It rained most of the night. When I finally crawled out of my tent, I discovered that a cloud must have fallen. The entire ridge was enveloped in a heavy fog. Ominous yet beautiful.

My plan for the day was to hike about 9 miles to US Route 19E. Once I reach 19E, I can choose to go left, which will take me to Mountain Harbour Bed and Breakfast - or I can choose to go right, which will take me to The Station at 19E. Two iconic hostels, each with their own personality. Mountain Harbour is the classier establishment, with $30 single bunks and a $13 breakfast which has been voted “best on trail” over ten years in a row (not sure what authority conducts such a vote, but we’ll take their word for it). The Station at 19E is a bit more chaotic. It’s a pub, restaurant, and music hall with 400+ craft beers and live music on Saturday nights (tonight!). I honestly had no idea whether I would choose left or right. My plan was to get to 19E and just follow my gut.

I started hiking with Puddin, Clover, Excel, Katie, and Jasmine. We immediately started climbing out of Yellow Mountain Gap towards the summit of Little Hump Mountain. As we climbed the cloudy fog thickened and the wind gusts grew aggressive. Visibility was limited which gave the impression of false summits at the edge of our visibility. So many false summits. One after another.

As we neared the summit of Little Hump, the trail grew increasingly rutted. The main path was more of a muddy, eroded canyon, which put major strain on my ankles. I tried to walk in the main rut as much as possible to minimize erosion, but I found myself straying to the side more and more. Poor trail etiquette I know, but better than a strained ankle.

Despite the tricky footing, Little Hump was beautiful in the fog. At the summit, I stopped to let the crew pass ahead of me. I needed to take a quick pit stop, but more importantly, I wanted to hike in solitude for a bit. Hiking in a group can work magic for the spirits, but this morning, I needed to drink in the atmosphere for myself.

As I descended from Little Hump, I entered a forest which offered some relief from the wind. After about 2 miles of descent, I made it to the open face of Bradley Gap, which sits between Little Hump Mountain and Big Hump Mountain. Poetic nomenclature, for sure😂

As I continued on, the wind and rain really picked up. Visibility reduced even further. I experienced wind gusts unlike anything I’ve felt before. As I climbed Big Hump, I felt my body being pummeled by the wind. It was as if my torso was a sail, catching each gust, threatening to lift my feet from the muddy, rutted path. I felt vulnerable and exposed. All I could do was keep moving forward. It was a humbling and strangely beautiful experience.

More than any other moment yet, I felt like I was being tested by the trail. As if this was some crucial moment in the heroes journey of a thru-hiker. I was crossing the threshold and plunging deep into the unknown. Everything felt so real. I felt the adrenaline in my system, tinged with a bit of fear. I laughed a lot too.

The wind was crazy today. At some points it was so breezy that I struggled to walk straight!

The descent from Big Hump was also wooded, offering relief from the wind. After about 2.5 miles of mildly graded descent, I reached Doll Flats, which is where the trail leaves NC for good. I finally had a second state under my belt!🎉🎊

Shortly after Doll Flats, I caught up with the crew and the downhill grade grew much steeper. The downhill really hurt my knees, and I made a mental note to try and ice my knees this evening.

After 3 miles of knee-aching descent, we made it to 19E. The choice of left or right was made for me as the entire crew turned right. They were headed for The Station and I followed. After a half mile road walk, we made it to The Station at 19E. The rain was heavy and the place was packed. I ended up securing a mattress in the loft space of an open common room for $30. I’m still trying to be COVID cautious these days, which generally involves avoiding shelters or shared bunk rooms at hostels, but sometimes the trail just isn’t conducive to caution. The loft space was not exactly socially distanced accommodations, but my need for a dry place to sleep won out over the nagging voice of Anthony Fauci in the back of my mind. Laundry and a free breakfast were included in the price, which eased my conscious even further.

After a shower, I paid a visit to The Station’s gear/resupply pantry, which was essentially a closet filled with overpriced Snickers, Ramen, and Slim Jims. The resupply left a lot to be desired but I managed to scrounge together enough to make it work. In the common area, I found a handful of cooking supplies and random ingredients that had been abandoned by earlier hikers. I assessed my options, and ended up making tuna mac in the hostel kitchen. Katie and Jasmine tried some and thought it was good until I shared that I had used mayonnaise for extra creaminess (in my defense, you couldn’t taste it - I was just being resourceful😂).

Lots of new and familiar faces began arriving at The Station. Most of The Little Hotties were staying, including Gunga-Din, Disco, and a rather gregarious fellow named “Aquaman.” I also met a duo of hikers named “Fox Trot” and “Ghost,” who had been hiking with Push for a while. Lastly, I met a couple going by “5 Pounds” and “Swiss Miss.” 5 pounds earned his name because he carries 5 pounds of fire breathing supplies. Like, a literal circus side show act (which I never saw, unfortunately).

In all the chaos, it was nearly impossible to find a quiet place indoors. I eventually discovered that the basement laundry room was fairly disturbance free. So I called AC and we talked for a couple hours as I elevated my leg against a washing machine, iced my knee, and popped ibuprofen.

As the resident laundry room goblin, I ended up switching many hikers laundry from washer to dryer. This unexpectedly paid off later in the evening as Excel and 5 pounds offered to buy me beers for doing their laundry. The Station’s pub carried over 400 craft beers and I was presently surprised to find that they carried Sam Smith’s Chocalate Stout, which is my favorite beer. Excel bought me their last bottle and I joyously quaffed it down. 5 Pounds bought me a local Coffee Stout which was fine but forgettable.

For dinner, I was hoping to order something heavy with vegetables, but as far as I could tell, they didn’t offer many non-fried veggies on the menu. I ended up ordering a French dip per Excel’s recommendation, which was basically a Philly cheese steak with a side of onion broth soup for dipping. It was hardy and satisfying. I drank, ate, and chatted with my fellow thru-hikers while a local bluegrass took the stage and did their thing.