Hikers Log - trail date: day 78

(Chimney Rock (mile 1076.5) - Tentsite (mile 1097.8))

I woke up this morning around 6:45am to the sound of light rain against my tent. In a tired haze I crawled out to relieve my bladder and considered how nice it would be to sleep in. I then realized I could do just that. I was not planning to hike an insane distance today and the rain was not exactly enticing me to get moving. More importantly, I realized that this hike is maybe the only time in my life where I have complete freedom to structure my day exactly how I see fit. So I crawled back in my tent and slept until 8am, the latest I have slept on trail in a long time.

I ended up breaking camp and starting the day's hike at just before 9am. The rain had remained a light sprinkle and I opted to skip the rain jacket for the time being. I felt grateful for the rain because it would likely keep the afternoon cool, making for a pleasant hiking temperature.

After a couple hours the rain grew heavier. At this point I was thoroughly soaked but felt warm enough as long as I was moving. I reached Caledonia State Park after hiking for about 9 miles and quickly made my way to the restroom. There, I spent a considerable amount of time warming and drying myself with the electric hand dryers in the restroom. I then sat outside under the restroom's vestibule and ate lunch while watching the rain fall on the park parking lot.

I finally put my rain jacket on after another session with the electric dryers and made my way down the trail. After 2 miles I reached Quarry Gap Shelters, two small 4 person shelters connected by a covered porch with a picnic table. This may be the prettiest shelter I have seen on trail. The clearing around the shelter included a large fire pit, spring, flower box, and swinging bench. At the picnic table were several thru-hikers stopped for lunch including JPEG and Shady Grove, who I had not seen since Boots Off. I stopped to chat and while I was there Mouse and Mr. Darcy both passed.

I began hiking again around 2pm and the rain was slowly replaced by a thick fog. I was beginning to get hot so I took my rain jacket off. As the rain stopped, the forest displayed all of its hydrated vigor. I was excited to spot a young toad as well as a young red eft.

After another 7.5 miles I reached Birch Run Shelter where I stopped to warm myself and chat around the fire pit. While there, I ran into "Trainer," one of the Little Hotties I had last seen in Grayson Highlands. Trainer explained that he was suffering from a cold after hiking 69 miles during the 24 hour challenge.

I then hiked another 3 miles to a tentsite which puts me 7 miles out from Pine Gtove Furnace General Store, home of the half gallon challenge!

Hikers Log - trail date: day 77

(PA Route 16 (mile 1069.6) - Chimney Rock (mile 1076.5))

AC and I left our Airbnb in Center City Philadelphia just before 11am. We couldn’t leave Philly without grabbing a cheesesteak, so we made our way to the original Tony Luke's, apparently one of the best cheesesteak spots in Philadelphia. We ordered a cheesesteak with cheese wiz and fried onions according to the recommendation of the cashier. The cheesesteak was indeed delicious and I ate it voraciously. 

We then drove back to Waynesboro and made a quick resupply run to Walmart before heading to the trailhead. After organizing and packing my resupply, AC and I exchanged "see ya laters" and I started hiking at about 4:30pm. 

I was unsure of how far I planned to hike, but I ended up setting my sights on Chimney Rock, 6.9 miles away. The spot had been recommended to me by Josh when I hitched into Waynesboro on Friday. It was apparently a nice campsite offering excellent views. The hiking was nice and it was especially pleasant to be hiking in the new shoes I picked up in Philadelphia. Interestingly, my feet seem to have changed size considerably since I started the trail. I originally started with 11.5 shoes. Then in Erwin I picked up a pair of 10.5 wide shoes which seemed to fit exactly the same as my original 11.5 shoes. Now when I was at REI, the 11.5 and 10.5W both felt much too narrow, so I upsized to an 11 wide which seems to be ideal for my foot which has widened considerably since starting the trail. 

I made it to Chimney Rock at about 7pm. When I reached the side trail I ran into Stu who was still planning to hike another 14 or so miles before calling it a day. He explained that he was trying to catch up with his trail family for the half gallon challenge tomorrow and headed down trail.

The side trail to Chimney Rocks featuring Stu in orange

At the Chimney Rocks campsite I met "JPEG," a gentleman from Atlanta (Birmingham originally) who’s a tarp camper. We discussed tarp camping and ultralight gear and he was really interested in my Tarptent. He explained that his pack was bespoke, made specifically to his measurements by a one-man company (the name of which I can’t remember). Apparently, JPEG had insisted the pack be made with a hip belt even though the pack maker thought it was unnecessary since the pack was so small.

After chatting with JPEG for a while, I ate dinner on Chimney Rock. Dinner featured cold soaked ramen with a chicken packet, mushroom spaghetti sauce, powdered whole milk, and Tuscan chicken and herb spices. The cliff itself faces east, so though the views were superb, I wasn’t able to watch the sunset. After dinner, I retired to my tent. The plan for tomorrow is to hike about 20 miles which will put me 8 miles from Pine Grove Furnace State Park, roughly the halfway point and the site of the half gallon challenge!

Dinner views from Chimney Rock

Returning to trail

after a weekend with love

full belly, full heart

Hikers Log - trail date: day 76

Zero day with AC in Philadelphia!

After picking up a new pair of Altra Lone Peaks from an REI in King of Prussia outside Philadelphia (the shoe sales associate was totally uninterested in the fact that I was thru-hiking😂), AC and I made our way to an Airbnb in the Center City neighborhood of Philadelphia. The window of our 1-bedroom apartment overlooked an alleyway, and just across the alley was an entrance (or maybe rear exit) to a gay nightclub. Shortly after we arrived, there was commotion in the alley, and we looked out the window to see a group of paramedics carrying a (hopefully) unconscious man out of the nightclub on a gurney. The man was totally naked save a pair of tighty whities, and the paramedics loaded him into the back of an ambulance before driving away. It was quite a scene to welcome us to Philadelphia!

After our unusual introduction to the sites and smells of Philly, we visited Reading Terminal, a massive market hub of food vendors hocking artisanal grub. We procured bread and fancy cheese and made our way to a nearby park. The park was across the street from the massive and ornate Philadelphia City Hall and was also home to the city’s famous Robert Indiana LOVE sculpture. Amusingly, but certainly not surprisingly, there was a massive line of people waiting to get pictures and selfies with the sculpture. It made for good people watching. AC and I enjoyed our bread and cheese; especially a lemon and honey wensleydale we had purchased in reference to the Monty Python “Cheese Shop” sketch.

Later, we had a lovely dinner at Double Knot followed by a destination-less evening walk. We ended up in a park next to the Liberty Bell. Amusingly, we seem to keep accidentally finding ourselves at famous Philadelphia landmarks.

Hikers Log - trail date: day 75

(Annapolis Rocks (mile 1050.5) - PA Route 16 (mile 1069.6) *overnight in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania*)

I left camp around 8am this morning without eating breakfast. After hiking just over a mile, I stopped to eat and appreciate the view at Black Rock Cliffs overlooking Interstate 70 as it passed through the Maryland countryside. The morning hiking was gorgeous, and I couldn’t help but reflect on what a shame it would be to burn through this section of trail trying to complete the “four state challenge.” The goal of the four state challenge is to start in Virginia and then hike through West Virginia, Maryland, and into Pennsylvania in less than 24 hours. That’s roughly 44 miles of hiking. In other words, two relatively average length days crammed into one day. Everyone I’ve talked to who’s done it says it’s miserable. It also usually takes at least a day of rest to recover from, so from a pacing perspective, it all comes out in the wash. I get the appeal of a crazy challenge. When I was a canoe guide these sorts of challenges appealed to me. But now, I think attempting to hike over 2,000 miles from Georgia to Maine is enough of a challenge. Plus, I’d rather take my time and soak in the sights Maryland has to offer.

After a little less than a mile, I passed Pogo Memorial Campsite and took my first wrong turn of the trail. I turned down a water trail as I followed a group of hikers going to get water, fortunately I realized my mistake after only about 100 yards when I saw a blue blaze on a tree. Silly me. I hiked another 8 miles and ate lunch at a small trickling waterfall.

After a few more miles I ran into 2 gentleman who were painting fresh AT blazes on trees and rocks along the trail. This was an exciting encounter because I have spent a lot of time staring at and thinking about blazes over the last 1000 miles. I have often wondered who creates them and how they are made. I stopped to chat with one of the guys and they explained the process to me:

First, he would clean the surface of tree with a metal brush. Next, he would use a toothbrush to paint the blaze onto the bark. He explained that in his experience, a toothbrush seems to work better than a paintbrush because the bristles are strong and durable. Finally, I learned that the blazes are supposed to be 2" wide by 6" tall but they often change shape (mostly widening) as a tree grows.

The next landmark I passed was a short side trail to High Rock Ledges, but I did not stop because the spot is apparently covered in bad graffiti and trash. I then passed a group of trail maintenance volunteers with backpack pressure washers who were cleaning graffiti off rocks. They explained the area is easily accessible from town thanks to an access road and parking lot next to the ledges.

After another 3.5 miles, I passed briefly through Pen Mar Park which featured a prominent sign promising Maine (which I presume meant Mt. Katahdin) was only 1080 miles away! Just north of Pen Mar Park, I crossed the Mason-Dixon Line at the border of Maryland and Pennsylvania. Not only was this the border of another state, this was also the boundary between the south and the north. It was a cool feeling to know I had literally walked from the deep south!

Another 2.5 miles brought me to PA Route 16, which was the road to get into Waynesboro. I was able to snag a quick hitch into town from Josh, a middle aged gentleman covered in tattoos driving a huge lifted Toyota Tundra. Josh lived outside of Waynesboro and was returning from an unsuccessful morel mushroom foraging expedition. He explained he often picked up hikers to take them to the Walmart just outside of town. Josh dropped me off at the Days Inn, where the man at the desk explained that my reservation had somehow been made for June 10th. Fortunately, I was able to get a room with two double beds for the same price.

I showered then went to the nearby laundromat where I started my wash and ordered takeout from a nearby hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant. I picked up my takeout - enchiladas and a tamale with sides of rice and beans - and ate it in the laundromat while I waited for my clothes to dry. Freaking delicious🤤

After finishing my food and laundry, I returned to the Days Inn to await ACs arrival before our trip to Philadelphia tomorrow.

The birth of a blaze

toothbrush and paint to create

a guide for many

Hikers Log - trail date: day 74

(Shenandoah Street (mile 1025.1) - Annapolis Rocks (mile 1050.5))

After being dropped off at the Shenandoah Street parking lot, Delta and I made our way towards Harpers Ferry. As we left the busy street and returned to the earthen trail, we encountered a somewhat disheveled, possibly homeless gentleman walking southbound. When he saw us, he gave us a big grin, revealing a mouth with only a handful of teeth. In a loud, jubilant voice, he excitedly exclaimed “WELCOME TO DA’ FERRYYYY!!!” Delta and I both laughed and thanked the man for such an unexpectedly warm welcome.

We soon reach the blue blaze for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Headquarters. The side trail routed us through the historic campus of Storer College, a small school founded in 1865 with the mission of providing education to formerly enslaved men and women. For 25 years, Storer was the only school in West Virginia where a person of color could receive an education beyond the primary level. Storer operated until 1955 and played a formative role in the early protest movement against Jim Crow laws, including holding the first American meeting of the Niagara Movement (which preceded the NAACP) in 1906.

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy Headquarters was a block north of Storer College. The visitor center was still closed due to COVID precautions, but that couldn’t stop Delta and me from taking the iconic ATC front porch pic. Harpers Ferry is not the halfway point, but I’ve heard it called the “spiritual halfway point.”

I left Delta and made my way back to the trail, passing the old canons and historical buildings that dotted the blue blaze. The trail itself skirts the southern edge of town above the northern shore of the Shenandoah. I soon reached Jefferson Rock, a peculiarly balanced rock overlooking the Potomac. Thomas Jefferson is said to have stood on this spot during a 1783 visit to Harpers Ferry. The view inspired him to write of the Shenandoah and Potomac Privers: “In the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it assunder, and pass off to the sea… This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic.” The pillars were placed under the rock around 1860 by the U.S. armory superintendent, who feared that the rock was “endangering the lives and properties of the villagers below.” I thought it was a cool rock and couldn’t help taking some silly pictures with it.

As the trail routed me through the heart of Harpers Ferry, I was impressed by the rich history in every direction. It was still early in the morning, so all the historic attractions were shuttered and there were very few people around. I felt a bit disappointed to be passing through such a beautiful and historic area without getting to see inside any of the historic attractions. It also would have been nice to be able to find a bathroom. Regardless, the town was cool. I got the impression that it was a Disney Land for US history buffs.

I left Harpers Ferry on the Goodloe Byron Memorial Footbridge, a pedestrian and railroad bridge connecting West Virginia and Maryland, and just like that, I completed the ~1 mile section of AT in West Virginia. It was a bit wild to have another state in the bag so quickly after finishing Virginia. These contrasting extremes served as a reminder that states are a poor metric to assess thru-hike progress. Nevertheless… another state down! Woop 🎉🥳

As I reached the far end of the bridge, a train emerged from a cliff side tunnel. It was loud as hell, so the noise and my growing need to dig a cat hole motivated me ahead at a faster pace. At this point, the AT follows the C&O Canal Towpath for about 3 miles. The C&O Canal Towpath is a popular recreation trail originally built for draft mules to walk beside the canal as they towed boats along the waterway. The trail spans 184.5 miles between Cumberland, Maryland and Georgetown in D.C. As I walked, the need to SCHMOO became more and more urgent. My options were limited though. On my right was a small, brushy patch of shore between the trail and the Shenandoah. On my left was the canal, which was dry. There weren’t a ton of people around, but I needed to find a place where I wouldn’t be spotted by any poor unsuspecting families. Eventually, I found a spot on the left side where the brush was thick between the trail and canal. I climbed down into the canal, which was about 6-7 feet down. Unfortunately, the ground was very rocky and my little ultralight trowel wasn’t up to the task. I excavated a pathetic little dent in the earth and did my business. Afterwards, I capped my creation with the largest rock I could find. My buddies in Scouts called this the “Indian burial” method. Not proper LNT practice, but sometimes it’s the only option.

I climbed back out of the canal using a ladder of tree roots and emerged back onto the trail as if nothing had happened. I continued on and after passing a couple water locks, the canal was no longer dry and I began spotting life. Turtles lined up politely on their basking perches, families of ducks, and even a river otter who swam sleekly along the water’s surface before diving under and disappearing from view.

The towpath was almost perfectly flat and I made good time. After a mile, I passed under the massive Route 340 Bridge, which I realized we had crossed last night and this morning while traveling to and from the Airbnb. After another 2 miles, the trail left the C&O Canal Towpath, crossed under Route 340 again, passed a parking lot for day hikers, and finally re-entered the woods. I was climbing again almost immediately. After 0.7 miles, I reached the side trail to Weverton Cliffs were I spotted a freshly molted cicada perched on an old sign post. The little dude reminded me that a massive brood emergence was due. I’m excited to see it, but also a little terrified about the noise. Like seriously, am I going to be able to sleep? 😅

I dropped my pack at the side trail and went to see the cliffs, which were indeed impressive. It was clearly a popular spot for day hikers, which made sense given the short hike and awesome views. An older couple asked me if I was thru-hiking and offered me an apple, which I happily accepted.

After about 6 miles, I made it to Gathland State Park, an unexpected landmark featuring running water faucets and castle-like ruins. After another 7 miles, I reached the Dahlgren Backpacker Campsite, a Maryland DNR-managed campground with gravel tent pads and a shower house with three stalls featuring flush toilets, showers, and running water available from a utility sink at the side of the small, pale yellow building. I stopped for the flush toilets and then crossed US 40A at Turners Gap. Near the crossing was the Old South Mountain Inn Restaurant, a fairly nice dining establishment, which according to Guthook comments, turns hikers away by saying they are “out of food.”

A bit beyond the road crossing, I passed a beautiful stone church which seemed to exude its age and history. Another half mile brought me to Washington Monument State Park. The trail routed alongside a large picnic area, featuring restrooms and a water spigot. The place seemed like an ideal trail magic location, but alas no trail angels materialized with fresh fruit, grilled food, and cold beer. I continued on and discovered the state parks namesake - a somewhat barrel-shaped stone tower which was apparently the first phallic memorial dedicated to our country’s first president and revolutionary hero. A narrow stone spiral staircase brought me to the top of the monument, which offered 360 panoramic views overlooking nearby Boonsboro, Maryland. I had no idea this landmark existed, so this was an excitingly unexpected discovery.

Another 3 miles brought me over Interstate 70 on a chain link pedestrian footbridge. From there, the trail climbed back up onto the ridge and dipped into South Mountain State Park. I reached the side trail for Annapolis Rocks, my destination for the evening, at mile 1050.5. A large campsite maintained by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club was located near the end of the quarter mile side trail. As I searched for an open tent spot, by exhaustion gave way to an awareness of an unavoidable shuffling and scratching noise. As I peered down at my feet, I realized it was the sound of dozens, hundreds, and probably even thousands of cicada larvae emerging from underground and rustling through the leaf litter. Everywhere I looked were cicada larvae slowly and deliberately scurrying about. Searching for some vertical surface to climb, perch, and molt. Crazy.

I set up my tent in a small clearing, taking care to clear out all the cicadas, and started my cold soak before heading to the namesake Annapolis Rocks. To my surprise, I found the cliffs unoccupied. I sat along the rocky, westward facing outcrop and basked in the glow of the intensifying sunset as I dug into my ramen bomb. This was a darn nice way to end a long day of hiking.

The brood is stirring 

many nymphs emerge en masse

Hikers Log - trail date: day 73

(Stealth Campsite (mile 998.9) - Shenandoah Street (mile 1025.1) *overnight at Airbnb*)

I left Ashby Hollow at about 7:30am. Delta had texted me to say that he stopped early yesterday after smashing his shin on a log. Apparently, he stopped about a mile before Ashby Hollow. He said he would hopefully catch up today, but he also did not feel a huge need to rush through this section. Making it to Harpers Ferry for the Airbnb would be awesome, but he was planning to meet his mom in Maryland this weekend, and that can be wherever. On the other hand, I really need to make it to Waynesborough, Pennsylvania by Friday night to meet up with AC, so I had a little more reason to bust ass.

The rollercoaster started strong with big rocks that I imagined must foreshadow Pennsylvania. Knowing that I was over half way between Front Royal and Harpers Ferry made the upcoming 26 miles seem more manageable. I also knew that making it to Harpers Ferry tonight would make my Thursday and Friday hiking more manageable. Probably somewhere in the range of ~20 mile days, which will be very nice. We’ll have to see what the shelter and campsite situation looks like, although the last couple nights have reminded me how much I enjoy stealth camping.

After 1.1 miles of rollercoastering, I reached a major milestone… MILE 1000🎉🍾🍻🎊🎆

After a brief celebratory photoshoot, I ate my breakfast and treated myself to a well-earned golden mango🥭

Quadruple digits never felt so good!!!

After continuing on, I soon felt the growing need to dig a cathole. I crossed a large stream and dropped my pack at the beginning of a side trail running parallel to the stream. I made my way down the side trail and then away from the stream. As I crouched to dig my cathole, I noticed a hognose snake eyeing me suspiciously. This was a thrilling encounter because I have never found a hognose in the wild before! I finished my business and snapped a couple photos with my phone. I wanted to get some good macro shots with my camera, so I rushed back to my pack, grabbed my camera, and nearly sprinted back, hoping that my hognose model had waited patiently for my return. Unfortunately, my serpentine friend was nowhere to be found. I looked around for a while before giving up and continuing down the trail.

Fortunately, my phone camera is not too shabby

Bears Den Rocks

Raven Rocks

Another 5 miles brought me past Bears Den Rocks. I then reached VA Route 7 in Snickers Gap after a short 0.6 mile downhill descent. VA Route 7 is a major four-lane highway with a narrow grassy median and a sign specifying “TRAIL X-ING.” The highway was somewhat busy, but I took it one side at a time and made it across without any close calls. A quick 2.5 miles brought me to the first Virginia/West Virginia border. The trail quickly dips into West Virginia and then follows the border before finally leaving Virginia just outside Harpers Ferry. Just after the border was Raven Rocks, which offered nice views to the south.

After another 1.5 miles, I reached the end of the Roller Coaster, which was marked with a similar “WARNING NOW ENTERING THE ROLLER COASTER” sign for southbound hikers. The next 12 miles or so straddled the Virginia/West Virginia border. The border followed a single ridge which meant there wasn’t much in terms of major elevation changes. It also meant there wasn’t much in terms of water sources. In fact there were no on-trail water sources. After 3.5 miles of hot and dry hiking, I was getting low on water. I decided I had to take long detour to get water at the Blackburn Trail Center, a full amenities campground maintained by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The blue blaze was a steep decline with many switchbacks. I resented every step, knowing I would be climbing back up in just a few minutes. The trail center itself was an impressively nice facility, complete with a bunk house, solar showers, and tent pads. I filled my water bottles and gritted my teeth for the ~200 foot climb back to the trail.

The Blackburn Trail Center

The afternoon was hot, but the ridge was pretty. Over the next 10 miles, I entertained myself with music. I was mostly in a hip hop kind of mood and opted to reacquaint myself with albums like Apollo Brown and Che Noir’s excellent collaboration “As God Intended.” The afternoon really started to drag on. The heat was oppressive and my body was really feeling the strain of attempting two ~27 mile days in a row. I spent much of the afternoon hiking in a fog. If I didn’t have the prospect of a a nice Airbnb motivating me to make it to Harpers Ferry, I definitely would have opted to find myself a stealth site.

A little before mile 1024, I crossed the Virginia/West Virginia border for the final time. The occasion was marked by a small sign, which didn’t capture the awesome feeling of finishing Virginia. Another notch in the belt. A big one at that. The longest stretch of trail in a single state is in Virginia - almost 550 miles. In other words, more than half of my journey so far. The state is notorious for grinding down hopeful thru-hikers and producing a cognitive state known as “the Virginia blues” which often leads hikers to quit their thru-hikes. I couldn’t help but feel proud that the Virginia blues didn’t get me. I wasn’t even half way to Katahdin, but this was still big accomplishment.

Shortly after the border, the trail enters the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park and begins its decent towards Harpers Ferry itself, nestled at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers. As I emerged from the woods overlooking the Shenandoah River, I caught sight of Delta just up ahead. He must have passed me when I stopped for water at the Blackburn Trail Center. Together we crossed under and then over the Shenandoah River Bridge and made our way to a river access parking lot on Shenandoah street were we waited for Katie’s dad to pick us up.

While we were waiting, a younger gentleman approached us with four beers from Vibrissa Beer x Dominion Wine and Beer. He said he worked at the brewing company and trail magic was a big part of their ethos. One of the beers was called “Backpacking with Nelson,” which he explained was named after a buddy of his who doesn’t particularly care for backpacking. The beers made our wait exceedingly pleasant as the afternoon cooled into the early evening. As I sipped on a beer and considered the day, I reflected that his may have been my toughest day of hiking. Two 27 mile days in a row takes a toll on the body. Not to mention the heat. Delta agreed that it was a tough one.

Eventually Katie’s dad arrived after picking Katie and Jasmine up a ways to the south. We then made our way to the Airbnb, which was a huge house overlooking the Potomac just outside Harpers Ferry. We were greeted by Katie’s Labradoodle and a bountiful home-cooked meal served by Katie’s mom. Afterwards, I was able to call Anna Claire from my small bedroom with Potomac views. Definitely worth the push today.

Hikers Log - trail date: day 72

(US Route 522 (mile 972.1) - Stealth Campsite (mile 998.9))

Delta and I checked out of the Super 8 at 7am and made our way across the street to Dunkin Donuts. We each secured a half dozen donuts and proceeded to slam them all for breakfast. We decided to try our luck hitching back to the trail and sure enough, we were able to catch a ride with a gentleman named Adam in an AmericanPest truck. Adam was an avid hiker, so he was excited to give us a little trail magic. He dropped us off at the trailhead just before 8am.

Our goal for the day was to hike 26.8 miles to a water source that would put us about halfway between Front Royal and Harpers Ferry. Our incentive for pushing hard is that Katie’s mom apparently has an AirBnB booked in Harpers Ferry for tomorrow night and we’ve been invited to join for a hot meal, showers, and laundry.

I hiked the first 5 miles with Delta. As we reflected on our time spent in Front Royal, we both agreed that it might have been our favorite trail town. I then continued on solo after Delta stopped to use the facilities at Jim and Molly Denton Shelter. Another 10 miles brought me to Whiskey Hollow Shelter for lunch. Sleeping on a bench in front of the shelter was Stu from the Little Hotties who had just got back from Trail Days. Delta reached the shelter and Stu filled us in on all the details from the annual hiker bacchanal. Apparently, the Little Hotties had rented a U-Haul to serve as both their transportation and lodging for the festivities. From what Stu told me, it sounded like a great time.

Delta and I continued hiking together for a while after lunch until I again pulled ahead. After 9 miles, I reached the start of the Rollercoaster, an approximately 14 mile section of steep climbs and descents with almost no views. Fortunately, I only had 2.8 miles to the supposed stealth campsite at Ashby Hollow. This short distance amounted to two hills of the rollercoaster. Ashby Hollow turned out to be a pretty great stealth spot, with a sizeable clearing next to a footbridge over a large brook. I set up my tent and ate dinner, expecting Delta to arrive any minute. He never did, although Stu hiked by, too much in the zone to even notice me sitting on a log next to my tent just off the trail. I silently wished him a nice ride on the rollercoaster.

Hikers Log - trail date: day 71

(Stealth Campsite (mile 265.4) - US Route 522 (mile 972.1) *overnight in Front Royal, Virginia*)

I woke up at 6am and treated myself to a very nutritious breakfast of a s'mores Pop Tart, a Fig Newton, and a Nature Valley almond butter biscuit before starting to hike at 7am. Delta and I cruised the first 4 miles to Tom Floyd Shelter where we both stopped to use the facilities. The shelter was just north of the park boundary, meaning we had completed the Shenandoah stretch of the AT. The shelter was pretty small, but it had a huge porch and seemed like a cool spot to chill.

It was less than 3 miles to US Route 522 where we were planning to either hitch or catch the trolly. As we were approaching the road, the trail routed us alongside a massive fence with signage for the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute. I was intrigued but also confused. The other side of the fence was just a field. We reached the road and figured we would try to hitch. I opened a bag of fruit snacks, stuck my thumb out, and tried to not look like a serial killer. A big orange lifted Jeep stopped for us before I could even finish my fruit snacks. The driver introduced himself as John and said he would be happy to take us to the Super 8.

We arrived at the hotel just after 10am. After thanking John for his help, we went in the lobby and were told we could not check in until 2pm so we decided to walk 0.4 miles to a Martin’s grocery to resupply. On the way an older woman pulling out of a parking lot stopped to ask if we were thru-hiking. When we said yes, she offered to drive us the half block to the grocery. Although it was a bit silly to be shuttled such a short distance, it seemed uncouth to turn down her offer. She introduced herself as "Put-put" and said she was hiking Shenandoah until her knee started acting up. Put-put seemed like a lovely lady. She even offered to drive us to the trailhead tomorrow morning and gave us her phone number.

After resupplying, Delta and I laid all our stuff out on the sidewalk to remove packaging and organize food. While we were organizing everything, we were approached by a homeless man who introduced himself as C and asked us to watch his bike while he shopped in the store. He also warned us about all the "tickies" along the trail and we promised to be vigilant in our tick checks.

After C returned and set off on his bike, Delta and I went to McDonald’s for lunch. The inside was closed due to COVID restrictions, so we tried to walk through the drive thru and were told we had to order online. We did so and ended up eating our McDonald's beneath a little dogwood tree under the golden arches. Next, we went to Spelunker’s, a popular local custard place where I was accidentally served two orders of custard! My first order came out. Then a couple minutes later, a different server appeared with the same order for “Jack.” I explained that I already got my order, and they said they couldn’t take it back so it was free. Truly a hiker’s dream come true!

The outdoor seating at Spelunker’s was nestled in a shockingly well manicured and lovely Japanese style garden. It was a wonderful place to sit and eat two custards.

According to Guthook, the town’s local outfitter sometimes lets hikers do their laundry, so we made our way there to see if the washing machines were available. They were not, but we took a picture with the bear before heading to the brewery where we ran into Put-put who explained she could no longer take us to the trail but she gave us $30 to pay for a shuttle, which we adamantly tried to decline, and a plate of wings, which we did not attempt to decline. We then had BOGO beer pints and sat around for a while.

After leaving the brewery, we tried to go to two different laundry mats, but both were closed. We then headed back to Super8, resigned to do shower laundry. I did my shower laundry then took my clothes to the parking lot where I dried them in a tree while sitting on a curb and chatting with AC on the phone.

To conclude the day, Delta and I took a long walk to a highly rated family-style Italian restaurant for dinner. Google reviews promised ridiculous portion sizes, and we were not disappointed. I ordered gnocchi pesto with sundried tomatoes and mushrooms. We both finished everything, including the starter salads. This surprised of our waitress, who said she had never seen anyone finish everything. They must not get many hikers 😂

Before sleep, I finally contacted Altra about replacing my shoes. We’ll see what they say. Fingers crossed🤞

Hikers Log - trail date: day 70

(Byrd's Nest #3 Hut (mile 941.2) - Stealth Campsite (mile 265.4))

I woke up at 6:45am. As I poked my head out of my tent, I discovered the sky was overcast and strongly hinted at rain. There was no water source at the hut, so full breakfast would have to wait. To tide me over, I ate an orange that was given to me yesterday morning by one of the Moms. It was delicious. I have really come to appreciate citrus on this hike, and this orange was orders of magnitude better than the little cuties that trail angels usually hand out.

I started hiking and quickly made it 1.5 miles to Mary's Rock, a really large set of cliffs described by Guthook as "dizzying." Certainly terrific views, but I would hesitate to say they were any more dizzying than most of the overlooks I have seen recently. Shenandoah has really blown me away with views. The park has offered some gorgeous hiking. Yesterday felt especially beautiful after Big Meadows Lodge. Tons of ridge hiking. Tons of overlooks. Good weather. Good vibes all around. I was also probably riding the high of blackberry ice cream pie and a full belly😂

Today, I am hoping to hike about 21-22 miles, which will put me about 10 miles outside Front Royal, where I am hoping to spend the night tomorrow. This plan could change. Apparently there is a free trolley that the city of Front Royal sends to the trail twice a day. I am not sure when the trolley arrives, but if it arrives at like 8am, then I definitely need to get closer than 10 miles. We shall see.

The view from Mary’s Rock

About a mile later, I encountered one of the coolest trees I have seen on trail. My tree id skills are not the best, but it gave me the impression of a large old (white?) oak. It lived right next to the trail, covered in burls. The tree extended a low branch to form an archway over the trail. The branch corkscrewed like some sort of elaborate bonsai, and my mind reeled with speculations as to the origins of such a dramatically odd feature. As I was admiring the tree, a rather large, tank-like beetle scuttled across the trail, pulling my attention from a macro-wonder to a micro-wonder. I spent a while photographing both.

After another mile, I reached Panorama Parking Area, which was the first water source of the day. I ate breakfast there with Delta and then we hiked 8.5 miles to Elkwallow Wayside. As we were approaching the wayside, the clouds began relieving themselves. We responded by pulling on our rain jackets, more so to keep warm than to keep dry. We were hoping the grill would be open, but alas, it was not. I settled for a prepackaged chicken ranch wrap, a full size bag of cool ranch Doritos, and a Neapolitan ice cream sandwich.

We ate lunch under a breezeway at the wayside with a few other hikers, including John, Kayla, and "Last Chance." After lunch, I used the phone in the Wayside to reserve a room for tomorrow night at the Super 8 in Front Royal. I also called the city visitor center to ask about the trolly to the trailhead. After much confusion, the lady told me the trolly completes a scheduled run to the trailhead at 9:45am. The rain eased up and Delta and I decided to hike another 12 miles to a stream where we hoped to find a stealth campsite.

View from Little Hogback Mountain

We crossed Skyline Drive 5 times over the next 6 miles before reaching the next water source at Gravel Springs Hut. We filled our bottles and set out on the final 6.5 miles to our destination stream at mile 265.2. Along the way, we passed many fine views and had a close encounter with a single deer who seemed much more interested in tasty leaves than us.

We filled our water at the stream and then set out to find the closest stealth spot. About 0.2 miles later, we found an excellent campsite with space for four or more tents just off the trail. Delta and I were eating our dinner when John and Kayla arrived with Aurora. Just as the afternoon light was fading, a single deer strolled lazily through our campsite, seemingly unfazed by Aurora.

Tomorrow morning, Delta and I would make our way into Front Royal. We were about 3 miles from the Shenandoah park boundary and a little less than 7 miles from the road into Front Royal. We might be able to catch the town trolly, but the road would probably be an easy hitch, so we were not feeling pressure to arrive at 9:45am.

Hikers Log - trail date: day 69

(Bearfence Mountain Hut (mile 919) - Byrd's Nest #3 Hut (mile 941.2))

I started hiking this morning around 7:45. Right out the gate was a mile of climbing to the Bearfence Mountain blue blaze. The blue blaze parallels the trail for about a half mile, offering awesome views coupled with very technical rock scrambling that at times felt almost like bouldering. I reached the top of the Bearfence Mountain rock scramble, where I was planning to eat breakfast, just as Delta caught up to me. We both sat to eat and soak in the excellent 360 views.

Another 7 miles brought me to Big Meadows Lodge. I arrived at 11:15am and found that lunch wouldn’t be served until 12pm so I took time to charge my things in the lobby and enjoy the views from the lodge porch. At 12pm sharp, Delta and I sat for lunch. I ordered a pimento cheese burger with a side of mac n’ cheese, plus a blackberry ice cream pie for dessert. Shenandoah is famous for its blackberries, which the lodges and waysides use to make desserts and smoothies. Before starting my hike, I was told by a previous thru-hiker that one of the absolute must-dos on any AT thru-hike was ordering a blackberry smoothie in Shenandoah. The blackberry ice cream pie wasn’t a smoothie, but man was it delicious.

After lunch, I hung around the lodge for another hour letting things charge and writing a postcard to AC. Just as I was getting ready to leave, I met another thru-hiker who introduced himself as “Strap-on.” I resisted the urge to ask him how he had earned such an R-rated trail name. We chatted for a bit, I recommended he order a blackberry ice cream pie, and then I headed down the trail.

The next 9 miles offered tons of views and overlooks. Lots of cool rock outcrops and good trees. I reached Little Stony Man Cliffs and encountered what may have been the most dramatic cliffs I had seen in Shenandoah. I spent a long time admiring the views.

As I was enjoying the cliffs, John, Kayla, and Aurora arrived and I hiked with them for a bit until I pulled ahead. After almost 3 miles, I reached Pinnacle Picnic Grounds where I stopped to fill my water bottles under the bathroom faucets. Intriguingly, there were tons of people of all ages running around in some sort of traditional south Asian garb. They must have been celebrating some holiday, but the occasion was lost on me. A later Google search leads me to believe that it was likely a Buddha Jayanti Festival celebrating the birth of Buddha. In the moment, it struck me as beautiful and a bit surreal to be surrounded by so many richly colored fabrics and merrymakers at a party I was not privy to. Just passing through… the story of the AT.

After another 1.5 miles, I was surprised to find Delta eating dinner at an overlook on The Pinnacle. The sun was setting and we were only about a mile from the shelter, but I figured the views were better here, so I joined Delta. We ate our dinners while watching the sun creep towards the horizon, casting a golden hour glow across Shenandoah and the Loray Valley. Beautiful.

John and Kayla caught up and joined us for a bit until we all decided to hike down to the shelter. This was John and Kayla’s first time meeting Delta, but the three of them had already heard a lot about each other as the only MIT students hiking in our bubble. Delta explained that he was a member of the Skull House Fraternity and John and Kayla explained that they were part of the Sailing Club. The significance of these affiliations was mostly meaningless to me, but I think it communicated something among the MITers. We quickly made it to the hut, which was in a fantastic location, allowing us to catch the sunset climax through the trees in front of the hut.

Blackberry ice cream

in a graham cracker crust

this must be heaven